Tracking System
HO Track and Ballasting Guide
Once you get comfortable operating your model railroad, you will begin to notice the little defects and problems with your setup. We are always sensitive to derailment. Here are some tips about track and ballasting, and they are useful to review whether you are a novice or an old-timer.
HO Track Variations
The various track manufacturers have made a large variety of track length and radii sections over the years. I like to keep as many variations in my “stock” as I can, to make it easy to construct a layout in a given space. With all the various “Code” styles, this can get complicated.
Track Codes
The standard 16.5mm HO track with a rail height of 0.100in (2.54mm) is known as “Code 100″ track. There are other Code sizes as well. A rail section height more to scale is Code 83, and for finescale modelers there is Code 75 track.
Flexible Track Solves Lots of Problems
Flexible track comes by the yard or metre, and can be used to make layouts that closely follow a prototype’s transitions.
Flexible track can be cut with a razor saw, or special rail cutters. All of the flexible tracks have some way to attach them to the roadbed, either with holes in some ties (sleepers) or ‘blind’ holes that can be punched out.
Spikes, Pins and Tacks
The type of hold-down you use for your track depends upon your roadbed material. Pins work well with any type of soft board, while spikes can be used with MDF or soft board, and tacks are best for plywood or thick MDF. You may get better results with thick roadbed by drilling a pilot hole and then pushing the tack in with pliers.
Rail Joiners
All those sections of track must be joined together properly, or you may have poor electrical connections or derailment. It’s a real hassle to find out two sections are not joined properly after you have pinned down all your track. Make a test run prior to pinning whenever you are laying track.
Realistic Track Has That Weathered Look
Weathering track, sleepers and ballast will add that fine detail that can really make your model railroad stand out. For larger layouts, weathering may be best done prior to laying track, while smaller layouts, where you can get at everything easily, could be done after pinning the track down.
Paint colors to use range from black to burnt umber and other reddish-brown colors. “Track colors” are available as well. A small brush and some time are all that’s needed to weather your track. Make sure you hit the sleepers as well. Don’t worry about getting paint on the top of the track. Just let it completely dry, and then use a track rubber to clean the tops off.
Keep paint out of rail joiners and moving parts of turnouts.
Ballasting Track
You may think that ballasting track is a messy job, and not worth doing. Au contrare, my friends. Ballasting can be simple and clean, and worth the time and effort into making your layout realistic. If you really don’t want to get into it, then start off by purchasing pre-made ballasted track.
Using pre-made ballasted track may cost more up front, however, there is the savings in time and hassle over doing it yourself. Additionally, these tracks are quite sturdy, and should last a long time, again offsetting the initial cost.
Take the time to weather your pre-made ballasted track though. Detailing it now will overcome any objections to your track looking like a toy.
There’s lots of makers of ballasted track, including Fleischmann, Roco-Line, Bachmann, Kato and others.
Do It Yourself Ballasting
For the die-hard, ballasting your track by hand is the only way to go. Here’s some simple techniques to get you started. What’s important is to take your time when doing this, and you will have a realistic track that meets the standards of even the most critical observer!
The overall technique is to have your track all pinned down (and tested to ensure there’s no derailments). You then add the ballast material around the track. You can use a brush to move it around and get it where you want it.
Prepare a wetting agent consisting of a few drops of dish soap in water, in a spray bottle.
Make your bonding glue by diluting white glue with water, about 20:1 ratio.
Next you will wet down a section of track at a time by spraying the wetting agent on it. This is to help your glue flow into all the little cracks and crevices in your ballast.
Using a straw as a pipette, you then pick up some of your glue solution and drop it along the centerline of the track section that you wet down. Do this for your whole layout, and let it dry for 24 hours.
This glue will be transparent when it drys.
Take care when gluing ballast around turnouts and other moving parts.
Note that you can also place weeds or other debris among the ballast prior to gluing, and the glue will then hold all that in place as well. And, this method of gluing can also be used to hold down scenery throughout your layout, not just the ballast.
Store-Bought Ballast
Don’t want the hassle of ballasting yourself. Don’t want to purchase pre-ballasted track? Ok, then how about these two alternatives?
Tracklay is an adhesive strip that you lay your track on, and then press ballast in place around it.
Brush-it-On comes in packs of various scales. You just add water, and apply the mix with a brush or a spatula. This can be as messy as it sounds, however, when done properly can look very good.
About the Author
You can read more about laying ho track on my website. There’s lots of free information there.
Scott Watkins is a model train enthusiast, committed to helping others get started in this exciting hobby. He offers a free mini-course on getting started with model trains.
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